Support

Check your spam folder first — confirmation mail from a new sender often lands there for the first few messages.

If it still hasn't arrived after a few minutes, try signing in anyway. If the app says your email isn't confirmed, request a new link from the sign-in screen. Links are single-use, so always use the most recent one.

You've signed up before with that address. Use Sign in rather than Create account. If you can't remember the password, use Forgot your password? on the sign-in screen.

We can't tell you whether a particular address has an account — answering that question differently for known and unknown addresses would let anyone work out who has an account here.

Open the email on the same iPhone or iPad you requested the reset from. The link is tied to that device for security, so tapping it on a computer won't work. Tapping it on the right device opens CarXMarket directly to a screen where you choose a new password.

Account tab → Delete my account. This permanently removes your profile, your listings and their photos, your saved cars, and your sign-in account. It cannot be undone and we keep no copy.

You don't need to email anyone or ask permission — it's in the app by design.

Check the filters. The price and mileage sliders both apply, and a car above your current price ceiling won't appear. Tap Filters and reset them, and clear the ZIP field if you've set a search radius.

Also check the seller-type chips at the top of Browse — if Dealership is selected and you're posting as a private party, your car is filtered out.

This was a bug and it's fixed. Photos you already uploaded are kept when you edit anything else, and they now appear in the photo strip while you're editing so you can see exactly what buyers see. Remove one with the ✕ on its corner, or add more with the + tile.

The score comes from your answers, not from effort. The Sell tab shows which specific answers are costing you points and how many each one is worth.

The biggest single factor is title and paperwork. A "yes" with no explanation scores worse than a described problem — an undescribed fault is treated as a critical flag, so writing out what's actually wrong genuinely helps you.

They're listed in full on the home page, and inside the app under Verify → Guide, with an explanation of what each one is testing for.

Eight weighted categories: title and paperwork, accident history, records and Carfax, mechanical condition, paint and body, ownership and coverage, seller openness, and servicing and wear. Title carries the most weight, cosmetics the least.

Critical red flags cap the score. A car whose title isn't in the seller's name cannot score well regardless of how good everything else looks.

The score measures disclosure, not condition. It tells you how completely and consistently a seller answered, not whether the car is good. A high score means you know what you're dealing with — it is not a substitute for an inspection.

If a seller's answers turn out to be untrue, report the listing.

Open the listing and tap Report. It disappears from your feed straight away, and is hidden from everyone once three separate people report it. Sellers aren't told who reported them.

That's a scam. It's in the Alerts tab along with five others. There is no legitimate reason for a seller to insist you use one specific VIN-check site — the link harvests your card details, and often the "seller" has no car at all.

The full answer is in the privacy policy. In short: your email, the seller details you enter, your listings and their photos, and which listings you save or report. No device location, no contacts, no advertising identifier, and no third-party trackers or analytics of any kind.

Yes — email sinarostam@gmail.com from the address on the account and we'll send you what's stored against it.